First-Time Home Buyer Questions Answered
The GST rebate, the FHSA, the Home Buyers' Plan, down payments, the stress test, gifted money, credit scores and everything else between you and your first set of keys - answered straight, for Alberta, by a broker who has walked thousands of first files through the door since 1999.
Updated August 2026 · 25 questions answeredBefore you read: Shawn is a mortgage broker - not an accountant, lawyer, financial planner or licensed insurance agent. The government programs below are federal and provincial rules that change; figures reflect the rules at the time of writing, and your eligibility always depends on your specific situation. Tax questions belong with your accountant, legal questions with your lawyer. These answers exist so you walk into those conversations - and your mortgage - knowing what to ask. General information, not advice.
How does the GST rebate for first-time buyers work (Bill C-4)?
Buy a NEWLY BUILT home as an eligible first-time buyer and the federal government eliminates the 5% GST on homes priced up to $1 million - up to $50,000 back. Homes between $1 million and $1.5 million get a partial rebate on a sliding scale; at $1.5 million and above it is gone.
The mechanics that decide eligibility: your purchase agreement must be dated on or after March 20, 2025 and before 2031; the home must be new construction or substantially renovated (resales do not qualify); construction must be substantially completed before 2036; you must be 18 or older, a Canadian citizen or permanent resident, and meet the first-time definition - neither you nor your spouse or common-law partner lived in a home you owned in the calendar year of purchase or the four years before it. Bill C-4 became law in March 2026 and the CRA is processing claims, generally with a two-year window after possession. On a typical Alberta new build in the $600,000 range, this is roughly $30,000 staying in your pocket - real money that changes what you can afford to build or buy.
Alberta angle: with no provincial sales tax and no land transfer tax here, a new-build first purchase in Alberta now carries remarkably little tax friction compared to almost anywhere else in Canada.
Buying new? Get the rebate math built into your financing plan from day one: 403-703-6847.
What is the minimum down payment to buy a home in Canada?
5% on the first $500,000 of the price, 10% on the portion between $500,000 and $1.5 million, and 20% once the price reaches $1.5 million (where insured mortgages end). On a $450,000 starter home: $22,500 minimum. On a $650,000 home: $25,000 + $15,000 = $40,000.
Two things first-timers consistently miss. First, the minimum down payment is not the whole cash story - lenders also want to see you can cover closing costs (a separate question below), so budget beyond the down payment itself. Second, a bigger down payment is not automatically the right move: putting every dollar down and keeping nothing for moving, furniture and the first surprise repair is how new owners end up back on credit cards at far worse pricing than their mortgage. The down payment can come from savings, your FHSA, your RRSP through the Home Buyers' Plan, a family gift, or a combination - each has its own paper trail, covered in their own questions here.
Not sure what your number is? The down payment FAQ goes deeper, or call: 403-703-6847.
Who qualifies as a first-time home buyer in Canada?
For most federal programs: you qualify if neither you nor your spouse or common-law partner owned AND lived in a home in the current calendar year or the previous four. It is not once-in-a-lifetime - own nothing for the qualifying window and the status can come back.
The definition trips people in three places. First, your PARTNER'S history counts: if they owned a home you both lived in during the window, that generally costs you the status even if your own name was never on a title. Second, each program applies its own version of the rules - the FHSA, the Home Buyers' Plan, the tax credit and the GST rebate are cousins, not twins - so qualifying for one does not automatically qualify you for all. Third, there are re-qualification paths most people never hear about, including after a marriage or common-law relationship breaks down. If your history is anything other than never owned anything, do not assume yourself out of tens of thousands of dollars - have someone check the actual rules against your actual dates.
Two minutes on the phone settles your status across every program at once: 403-703-6847.
How does the First Home Savings Account (FHSA) work?
The FHSA is the best deal in Canadian personal finance for a future buyer: contributions are tax-deductible going in (like an RRSP), growth is tax-free, and withdrawals for a qualifying first home are tax-free coming out (like a TFSA). Both ends tax-advantaged - no other account does that.
The numbers: $8,000 of contribution room per year, $40,000 lifetime, and unused room carries forward (miss a year, catch up later - carry-forward starts accumulating only once the account is open, which is the argument for opening it EARLY even with a small deposit). The account can stay open up to 15 years, so a 25-year-old opening one today is building tax-free house money on a horizon banks can only envy. A couple can each have one: up to $80,000 of tax-advantaged down payment between two people. If you never buy, the money is not lost - it can roll into your RRSP without using RRSP room. Open the account before you think you need it; the room and the deduction reward the early.
Planning a purchase a few years out? The order you fill accounts matters - the roadmap question below covers it.
How does the RRSP Home Buyers' Plan work?
The Home Buyers' Plan lets a first-time buyer withdraw up to $60,000 from their RRSP for a down payment - tax-free at withdrawal - and repay it to the RRSP over 15 years. A couple can pull up to $120,000 between them.
The rules that matter: the money generally must sit in the RRSP at least 90 days before withdrawal (no last-minute deposits for the deduction and immediate withdrawal), and repayment is a schedule, not a suggestion - miss a year's repayment and that amount is added to your taxable income. Timing nuance worth knowing: withdrawals made between January 1, 2022 and December 31, 2025 got a temporary three-year grace period, with repayment starting in the fifth year; outside that window, repayment starts the second year after withdrawal. Check which schedule applies to yours rather than assuming. The strategic read: the HBP is an interest-free loan from your own retirement fund - powerful, but it does put your retirement savings to work on your house, so the FHSA (which has no repayment at all) is usually the account to exhaust first.
Deciding between accounts? That is exactly the next question.
Can I use the FHSA and RRSP Home Buyers' Plan together?
Yes - same purchase, both programs, stacked. A maxed FHSA ($40,000 plus whatever it grew) and a full HBP withdrawal ($60,000) puts $100,000-plus of tax-advantaged money toward one first home. A couple doing both sides: potentially $200,000-plus.
This combination is the single most under-used first-timer move in the country, and the reason is simply that people do not know the programs stack. The practical order of operations: fill the FHSA first (deduction going in, tax-free coming out, zero repayment), use the RRSP/HBP as the second tank, and remember both have paper-trail requirements - your broker needs statements showing where every dollar originated, and withdrawals have forms and timing rules. Start the withdrawals well before closing day, not the week of. One caution: pulling money from investments on a deadline means you inherit whatever the market is doing that month, which is one more argument for the buy-in-a-year roadmap below - sequenced withdrawals beat panicked ones.
Want the stack mapped to your accounts and timeline? One call: 403-703-6847.
What is the First-Time Home Buyers' Tax Credit - and what else can I claim at tax time?
The year you buy, you can claim the First-Time Home Buyers' Tax Credit: a $10,000 claim on your return worth up to $1,500 back as a non-refundable credit. Couples can split the claim, but the $10,000 cap is shared, not doubled.
It is not life-changing money, but it is a fifteen-hundred-dollar cheque for filling in one line - and a surprising number of buyers simply never claim it. The buying year is also when other pieces land on your return: your FHSA contributions are deductible, an HBP withdrawal has its own reporting, and if the GST rebate on a new build applies, that claim has its own process with the CRA. The honest boundary: Shawn arranges mortgages, not tax returns - the credit and the claims belong in your accountant's hands, and the buying-year return is genuinely worth a professional's eyes because it is the most program-heavy return most people will ever file. What a broker does do is make sure you leave the mortgage process KNOWING which claims your purchase created, so nothing gets left on the CRA's table.
Buying-year tax questions? Bring your accountant; bring Shawn the mortgage: 403-703-6847.
Can first-time buyers get a 30-year amortization?
Yes. Since late 2024, first-time buyers can take a 30-year amortization on ANY insured purchase - new or resale - and any buyer (first-time or not) can take 30 years on a newly built home. Before that, insured mortgages were capped at 25 years.
What the extra five years buys you: a meaningfully lower monthly payment, which can be the difference between qualifying and not, or between a stretched budget and a livable one. What it costs you: more total interest over the life of the loan, and a modest surcharge on the mortgage insurance premium for going past 25 years. The strategic middle ground most people miss: take the 30-year for the QUALIFYING room and the breathing space, then use prepayment privileges to pay like it is a 25 - you keep the flexibility without marrying the extra interest. Whether the trade makes sense depends entirely on your numbers, which is a fifteen-minute conversation, not a guess.
Want both amortizations priced side by side on your actual file? 403-703-6847.
What is CMHC mortgage insurance and how much does it cost?
Put down less than 20% and Canada requires mortgage default insurance - from CMHC or its two private counterparts. It protects the LENDER if you default, and you pay the premium: a percentage of the mortgage that shrinks as your down payment grows, added onto the mortgage itself rather than paid in cash.
How to think about the cost: the premium scales in bands - the smaller your down payment, the higher the percentage, with the top band applying at 5% down, and a small surcharge if you take a 30-year amortization. Because it is rolled into the loan, you feel it as a slightly larger mortgage, not a closing-day bill. Here is the reframe worth hearing from someone who has watched thousands of files: insurance is not a penalty for being young or new - insured mortgages often carry the SHARPEST rates on the market, because the lender's risk is covered. Waiting years to save 20% while prices and rents move is frequently the more expensive path than buying insured sooner. Run the actual numbers both ways before treating 20% as a finish line.
Alberta angle: some provinces charge provincial sales tax on the insurance premium in cash at closing. Alberta does not - one more closing cost Albertans simply skip.
Want your premium quoted exactly for your price and down payment? Call or text: 403-703-6847.
What is the mortgage stress test and how does it affect first-time buyers?
Lenders must qualify you not at the rate you will actually pay, but at the HIGHER of your contract rate plus two percentage points, or a minimum qualifying floor the regulator maintains. It is a buffer proving you could still pay if rates rose - and it is the single biggest reason buyers qualify for less than they expect.
What it means in practice: your affordability is calculated at a rate meaningfully above the one on your paperwork, so the payment used to qualify you is higher than the payment you will make. First-timers feel this hardest because they are usually qualifying at the edge of their budget. The current floor number moves with the market - ask what today's is rather than trusting anything printed anywhere, including here. Legitimate levers exist: a longer amortization lowers the qualifying payment, paying out a car loan or credit card frees ratio room (debts count against you at their own payments), and adding a co-borrower adds income. What does not work is shopping the test away - it applies across federally regulated lenders. A broker's job is optimizing your file within the rules, and there is usually more room than people think.
Want to know your real stress-tested number before you fall for a house? Start with a pre-approval.
How much mortgage can I afford on my income?
Insured lending works on two ratios: roughly 39% of gross income for the house costs (mortgage payment, property tax, heat, half of condo fees) and 44% once every other debt payment is added - all calculated at the stress-test rate, not your actual rate. Your real number comes from those ratios, your debts and your down payment together.
Two honest cautions. First, the internet's income-multiple shortcuts ("four times your salary") are wrong often enough to be dangerous in both directions - debts, property taxes and down payment size swing the answer enormously between two people with identical incomes. Second, what a lender will APPROVE and what your life can comfortably CARRY are different numbers: the ratios do not know about your daycare costs, your truck habit or your plans. Decide your comfortable monthly payment first, then work backward to a price - not the reverse. The affordability calculator gives you a solid first pass in two minutes; a pre-approval turns it into a number a seller will take seriously.
Fifteen minutes gets you the real figure instead of the internet's guess: 403-703-6847.
What are the closing costs when buying a home in Alberta?
Budget roughly 1.5% to 2.5% of the purchase price on top of your down payment. The big pieces: legal fees, title registration, home inspection, appraisal (often covered), title insurance, and adjustments for property taxes the seller prepaid.
The Alberta advantage deserves its own sentence: there is NO land transfer tax here. Ontario buyers pay thousands in transfer tax on a comparable home; Albertans pay modest land-titles registration fees instead - a base fee plus a small charge per five thousand dollars of value, applied to both the transfer and the mortgage registration, typically landing around a thousand dollars on a mid-range purchase. The rest of the list: lawyer (shop two or three quotes; this is a competitive market), inspection (money well spent on any resale), and a buffer for the first-month surprises every new owner meets. Lenders also want to SEE closing-cost money in your account during approval - it is part of proving the file works.
Full breakdown with current figures lives in the closing costs FAQ.
Should I get pre-approved before I start looking at homes?
Yes, and it is not close. A pre-approval tells you your real budget, locks a rate hold while you shop, surfaces file problems while they are still fixable, and makes your offer credible - in a competitive week, the pre-approved buyer beats the identical buyer without one.
What people get wrong is the order: they fall in love with a house, THEN discover their number. By the time emotion is involved, every decision gets worse. The pre-approval process itself is quick when your documents are ready - income proof, down payment trail, the file basics - and it costs nothing. Worth knowing the honest limits too: a pre-approval is not a guarantee (the final approval also underwrites the PROPERTY, which is why the what-can-mess-it-up question below exists), and a rate hold protects you if rates rise while letting you take the lower rate if they fall. There is no version of this where skipping it helps you.
The whole process is mapped on the pre-approval page - or start with one call: 403-703-6847.
What credit score do I need to buy my first home?
Insured mortgages generally want at least 600, and the strongest pricing lives meaningfully higher. But the score is a doorway, not the whole house - lenders read the full report: history, utilization, and how you have handled the last two years.
What moves the needle fastest for a future buyer: keep card balances well under a third of their limits (utilization is the heaviest fast-moving factor), never miss minimums, do not close old accounts (history length helps you), and do not open new credit in the months before applying. If your score is bruised, that is a strategy conversation, not a dead end - there are lenders for strong-but-imperfect files, and a year of deliberate rebuilding often moves someone from alternative pricing to mainstream. Check your own report before the process starts so nothing on it surprises you mid-approval: errors are common and fixable.
The free route to your own report is on the credit check page; bruised-credit options live in the bad credit FAQ.
Can my parents give me money for a down payment?
Yes - gifted down payments from immediate family are routine and lenders accept them daily. The requirements: a signed gift letter stating the money is a true gift with no repayment expected, the donor's bank statement showing the funds, and the deposit trail showing it landing in your account.
Where gift files go sideways: the money appears as a mystery deposit with no letter (anti-money-laundering rules make untraceable cash a wall, not a hurdle); the gift arrives the day before closing instead of during approval; or it is quietly a LOAN dressed as a gift - if it is repayable, it is a debt, it belongs in your ratios, and misrepresenting it is fraud, full stop. Get the letter template from your broker early, move the money with time to spare, and let the paperwork be boring. One more honest note for the parents reading over your shoulder: gifting is generous and increasingly common - and it deserves its own family conversation about expectations, especially where siblings exist. Boring paperwork, clear conversations, happy holidays.
Gift letter template and the clean sequence: one call, 403-703-6847.
Can I buy a home if I just started a new job?
Often yes. Same field, permanent position, salaried, off probation - many lenders are comfortable, sometimes from the first pay stub. New industry, probationary, or variable pay - expect more questions, more documents, or a short wait.
The pattern lenders are reading for is CONTINUITY: a marketing manager who changed companies for a raise reads as career progress; a career change into commission sales reads as an income reset that needs history behind it. Probation is the most common snag - some lenders want it done, others will proceed with a strong letter of employment - and this is precisely the kind of lender-matching a broker does all day. If your income includes bonuses, overtime or commission, most lenders want a two-year average before counting it, so the timing of your purchase relative to your job change genuinely matters. Moving jobs MID-approval is its own hazard - covered in the what-can-mess-it-up question below.
Describe your exact job situation and get the real answer, not the internet's: 403-703-6847.
What documents do I need to buy my first home?
Income proof (pay stub, employment letter, two years of CRA records), a 90-day paper trail on your down payment, photo ID, and the purchase details once you have them. Self-employed, gifted funds and program withdrawals each add their own paper.
Two tools on this site do the heavy lifting for you. The document checklist builder asks five questions and produces your exact personal list - print it or email it to yourself. Then the documents-ready guide shows you where everything lives and how to fetch it in one evening, including the CRA My Account setup that turns a three-week paper chase into a ten-minute download. The strategic point behind both: missing paperwork is the number-one cause of mortgage delays, and in a competitive market the prepared buyer simply wins. Do the document evening BEFORE the pre-approval call and the whole process compresses.
Documents ready? Then you are fifteen minutes from real numbers: 403-703-6847.
Will getting pre-approved hurt my credit score?
Barely, and briefly. A mortgage pre-approval involves one credit inquiry, which typically costs a few points for a short while - trivial next to the value of knowing your real budget and holding a rate.
The fear behind this question comes from confusing inquiry TYPES. One mortgage inquiry is routine; credit bureaus also treat multiple mortgage-related inquiries inside a short shopping window as one event, because they understand rate shopping. What actually damages scores is a pattern of applications for many different KINDS of credit - a card here, financing there, a mortgage on top. Working with a broker helps precisely here: one pull, one file, presented to many lenders, instead of walking bank to bank collecting inquiries. If your score is fragile enough that a single inquiry worries you, that fragility is the thing to address - and it is addressable - not a reason to avoid finding out where you stand.
One pull, twenty-plus lenders shopped. That is the whole model: 403-703-6847.
What can mess up my mortgage after I'm pre-approved?
The final approval checks that nothing changed - so the golden rule between pre-approval and possession is CHANGE NOTHING. No new car, no new credit cards, no financing furniture, no job changes you can avoid, no mystery deposits, no co-signing for anyone.
The classics, in order of how often they wreck closings: financing a truck or furniture (new debt reshapes your ratios instantly); changing jobs mid-file (even a raise can restart probation and continuity questions); moving money around in ways that break the 90-day paper trail; and missing a payment on something small during the busy weeks of the purchase. Lenders can and do re-verify employment and credit right before funding - approval day is not the finish line, possession day is. If life forces a change - a layoff, an emergency - call your broker the same day, not after the lender finds out. Early honesty gives your file options; surprises give it none.
Something changed mid-purchase? Call before you do anything else: 403-703-6847.
Can I buy a home in Alberta while living in another province?
Yes - out-of-province buyers purchase Alberta homes constantly, especially with Alberta's affordability pulling people from Ontario and BC. The mortgage works much the same; the logistics need choreography: remote viewings, a local inspection you trust, and signing arrangements with an Alberta lawyer.
What changes with distance: you will lean harder on your team - a local realtor for honest video walkthroughs, an inspector whose report you will read like scripture, and a lawyer who can handle remote or virtual signing where appropriate. Your income and employment can be anywhere in Canada; the property and its paperwork are Alberta's. Watch the timing chain: if you are selling elsewhere and buying here, the closing sequence and any bridge financing need planning before you offer. And if the move comes with a new Alberta job, re-read the new-job question above - the two questions stack.
Alberta angle: no land transfer tax and comparatively sane prices are exactly why this question keeps arriving from area codes far from here. The math that brought you is real.
Buying from afar? Shawn quarterbacks Alberta files for remote buyers regularly: 403-703-6847.
How does rent-to-own work in Alberta - and is it a good idea?
Rent-to-own means renting with a contract to buy later, usually with an option fee and monthly rent credits building toward the purchase. It can genuinely work - and it is also where some of the saddest files come from, because the contracts are private agreements with none of the guardrails a mortgage has.
Where it goes wrong: the future purchase price is set badly for one side; the option money and rent credits are forfeited when life changes or financing cannot be arranged by the deadline; the seller's own mortgage or title problems surface late; or the buyer spends the rental years not fixing the credit and down-payment issues that made rent-to-own attractive in the first place. If you go this road: a real estate LAWYER reviews the contract before signing (non-negotiable), the price mechanism and every forfeiture clause are understood in daylight, and - the piece almost everyone skips - a broker maps your path to actually qualifying at the end, because a rent-to-own that ends without financing is just expensive rent. Often, an honest look at your file shows a straight purchase is closer than you think.
Considering one? Bring the contract to a lawyer and your finances to Shawn - in that order: 403-703-6847.
Is renting always throwing money away?
No - and a broker telling you that should earn some trust. Renting buys real things: flexibility, mobility, zero repair risk, and time to build savings and credit. Buying wins long-term for most people who STAY PUT, but buying at the wrong moment in your life loses to renting more often than the slogans admit.
The honest arithmetic: ownership costs more than the mortgage payment - property taxes, insurance, maintenance, closing costs both directions - and in the early years most of your payment is interest anyway. Sell within two or three years and transaction costs frequently eat any equity gained; that buyer would have been ahead renting. Ownership pulls ahead through forced saving (every payment builds some equity), fixed-cost stability while rents drift, and time in the market. So the real question is not rent-versus-buy in the abstract - it is whether YOUR next three-to-five years look stable enough for ownership's math to work. If they do, buying young is powerful. If they do not, renting while your FHSA fills is not throwing money away; it is buying options.
Want the rent-versus-buy math run on your actual numbers, with no sales pitch attached? 403-703-6847.
I want to buy in about a year - what should I do now?
Twelve months is the ideal runway - long enough to fix almost anything, short enough to stay motivated. The sequence: open the FHSA now, check your credit report now, start the down-payment paper trail now, and talk to a broker at the START of the year, not the end.
The rough calendar: months 12-9, open and start filling the FHSA (the room and deduction reward early movers), pull your credit report and dispute any errors, and stop taking on new debt. Months 9-6, build the boring bank-statement history lenders love, set up CRA My Account, and have the family conversation if a gift might be involved. Months 6-3, get pre-approved - yes, this early; it surfaces problems while there is still time to fix them and tells you your real budget before you emotionally commit to a price range. Months 3-0, documents refreshed, rate held, shopping with intent. The single most valuable move on the whole list is the early broker conversation: a year of deliberate preparation beats five years of vague intention, every time.
Start the clock with one fifteen-minute call - month twelve is today: 403-703-6847.
Can I buy my first home with a friend or sibling?
Yes - co-buying with a friend or sibling is increasingly common as a way into the market, and lenders handle it routinely: both incomes qualify, both credit files count, both names go on title. The mortgage is the easy part. The RELATIONSHIP paperwork is where co-buyers succeed or blow up.
The non-negotiable: a co-ownership agreement drafted by a lawyer BEFORE you buy, covering what happens when one wants out, one loses a job, one meets someone and wants to move - because one of those WILL happen. Know the two title structures (joint tenancy versus tenancy-in-common, which allows unequal shares and different inheritance outcomes) and understand the credit reality: each of you is typically responsible for the WHOLE payment in the lender's eyes, not half, and the mortgage sits on both credit files, affecting what else each of you can borrow for. Also know the exit math: a co-owner buyout later is a real, financeable transaction - standard lending covers most buyouts comfortably. Plan the exit at the entrance and co-buying is a genuinely smart door into the market.
The full picture lives in the co-ownership FAQ - then bring your co-buyer to one call: 403-703-6847.
What happens to my mortgage if I die or get seriously ill after buying?
The mortgage does not vanish - it becomes your estate's or your co-borrower's to carry. Which is why the protection conversation belongs IN the buying process, not five years after: a first home is usually the largest debt of your life landing at the exact moment your savings just became a down payment.
The landscape in one paragraph: mortgage protection coverage offered with your mortgage can pay it down or off on death, and optional layers exist for disability and critical illness - the version arranged through your broker generally stays with YOU across lenders rather than dying with a bank switch, which matters at renewal time. Personal life insurance from an advisor is the other route, with its own strengths. The honest boundary: Shawn is not a licensed insurance agent - what he does is make sure no first-time buyer signs the largest debt of their life without having HAD the conversation, and route you to licensed people for the decision itself. While you are at it: a will and an enduring power of attorney are the other two documents a new homeowner should not skip. Nobody regrets having them.
The deeper answers live in the insurance FAQ and the death and incapacity FAQ.
The First Home Is a Sequencing Problem
Here's what most people miss about buying a first home: almost nobody fails on income. They fail on ORDER. The buyer who opens the FHSA at 25, checks their credit at 26, and calls a broker twelve months before they want keys will beat a higher earner who does everything in the last six weeks - every single time.
Look at what the programs reward: the FHSA rewards early opening with carry-forward room. The Home Buyers' Plan rewards money that has sat 90 days. Lenders reward bank statements that have been boring for months and credit that has been clean for years. The GST rebate rewards knowing it exists before you sign a builder's agreement, not after. Every one of these is a sequencing prize - and every one is missable by simply not knowing the order.
What that means for you
Wherever you are on the timeline - five years out, one year out, or holding an accepted offer - there is a right next move, and it costs nothing to learn it. That is what the fifteen-minute call is for: not a sales pitch, a sequence check. The first-time buyer page maps the whole journey; the rates and timing FAQ answers the when-should-I-buy worry; and the document checklist tool gets you paper-ready in one evening.
Your first home is a sequence. Start it right.
Fifteen minutes, real numbers, and the next move for exactly where you are - from a broker doing first files since 1999.
Call or Text 403-703-6847 Start Online
General information for Alberta first-time buyers, not financial, tax, legal or insurance advice. Government program rules, amounts and dates (FHSA, Home Buyers' Plan, GST rebate, tax credits, insured mortgage rules) are set by federal and provincial authorities and change - figures reflect the rules at the time of writing; confirm current details before relying on them. Every mortgage approval depends on the full application and the property. Shawn Selanders, Mortgage Broker, Mortgage Architects. O.A.C. E.&O.E.